The pros make surfing look so graceful and easy but it isn’t. I first wanted to quit before falling in love with it and dozens of falls later I would like to share its joys with you.
Alex’s surfing history
I am constantly seeking new adventure sports which excite me and get my adrenaline pumping. Thus a few years back I gave surfing a go. Although the frigid waters of the Atlantic ocean along Nova Scotia’s coast were hard to get into I still enjoyed it. But I’d be lying if I said I was hooked from then on.
Thus a couple of years after I went surfing once more of the Southwest coast of Newfoundland shortly after I met Cory. We then drove to Cape Ray with Brent, a friend of ours. The swell here tends to pick up as we start getting the tails of hurricanes in the fall so it was crazy windy. We really noticed it through the Wreckhouse along the TCH. Slightly scared I was staring at white caps in the little pond tucked behind the sand dunes and considered surfing there instead. At least if I drifted there was shorelines all around. But no, I had to go in the ocean. I had a good laugh as I walked on the beach with the wind catching my surfboard and spinning me around. Let’s go surfing!!
Afterwards, Cory and I did a backpacking trip through Central America and spent a long time surfing in El Salvador. This is where it actually started. I was instantly hooked. First off, you can spend the whole day in the water without coming out with frozen fingers and blue lips.
Later on we traveled around the world meanwhile surfing in Hawaii, Australia, Indonesia and even India. I almost quit in Indonesia after heading out in 12 foot waves with pipelines, way too advanced for my shill levels. I got scared but Cory stayed at my sides and I went back to smaller waves and had the best time of my life in Indonesia.
Magical surfing
Surfing wasn’t all lollipops and rainbows for me. Cold, windy and so much work to barely stand up on my board. So why did I keep on surfing and fell in love with it one would ask? Well head south in bathtub water and go at it for at least one straight week and you will be hooked on surfing. It provides one with a feeling hard to describe.
I would call this adventure sport somewhat of magical, trance-like and fully in the present. When you are floating on your board waiting for the right wave, nothing else matters. Your only thought is to paddle and stand up to ride the wave for as long as you can before it crashes.
Things that you work hard for tend to be the most gratifying. And I will not call myself a pro by any means, I get by and if I manage to make a gentle turn on a 7-8 foot wave I’m ecstatic. Check out some of our pictures on our Facebook page.
On a side note if you want to get the surf forecast check out this website.
Alex
Note from the editor Cory 🙂
When I am sitting on my board out past the crashing waves looking out to the vast blue ocean. I feel truly at peace with myself and closer to the energy and power of our planet. Daydreaming about how far these waves have come and how honored I am to experience them one by one as they roll under me. Â Listening to the waves breaking meter away from where I bob softly like a cork. A true contrast to the rage and power of the thrashing ocean slightly closer to shore. Never forgetting to take in and marvel at the beautiful perspective of the landscape inland. Â Aware and in tune with the movement of the ocean looking for a potential chance for a few seconds of bliss and a ride with that powerful rage.
Cory & Alex
Live Wildly Intrepid and Aspire!
