Newfoundland in Canada is one of those island which just keeps surprising me with its rich and diversified landscapes. The other day was no exception as we hiked into the North Arm Hills. Being one of the four ophiolite mountains (Lewis Hills, Blow Me Down mountains and Tablelands) in Newfoundland makes them unique. Meaning that the oceanic crust was pushed upwards and exposed on land, a rare sight. Their orange glow comes from the peridotite rocks as they oxidize.
4:30 am came all too quickly. As I looked out the window dusk was only breaking. Tali, my friend’s dog was the only one who seemingly got up without trouble while Cory was fast asleep. Coffee on and bacon and eggs cooking, the excitement of hiking into the North Arm Hills quickly dawned on me. Smiling I jumped in my friend Keri’s truck and we headed out shortly after sunrise with music on.
As we drove the 40 km of dirt road we startled two young calves (moose) who ran across. Surrounding us were rolling hills and cliffs with fog lifting off Old Man’s pond. Confusing roads led us in a few directions before finally parking the truck and slipping into our hiking boots. Finally, we were off trekking into the woods without cellphone reception.
The trail head was tricky to find with tattered pink flagging tape. As we entered the old growth forest big birch trees welcomed us. It was still cloudy and early and the fern covered ground felt mystical. Chirping birds were singing melodies along with the babbling brooks. Far away stood the orange North Arm hills. Would we make it that far? Plus we were running a little late for low tide.
Seconds after reaching the beach connecting to the North Arm brook gusts of wind blew us with pounding waves on the rocks. Uneasy, we tried to find the best location to cross the estuary and brook. All three of us undressed into our underwear and put on our sandals before stepping into the water. Surprisingly it was warm and welcoming with little current. But it was getting closer to high tide and water was up to my chest in some sections. So we waded all the way around and a good 20-30 minutes later emerged on the other shore. All that while carrying the little dog in our arms. Husky do not particularly love water although Tali did swim a little.
Finally we could rest, warm up and eat some well deserved snacks before hiking on. This time on the actual North Arm Hills. The topography quickly changed from forested areas to peridotite rocks and brooks. Shortly after reaching this rocky terrain we took off our backpacks and hiking boots. Close by was a refreshing stream in which I put 3 Tiger beers to cool. Afterwards, I made some delicious zesty tuna croissants and sliced some smoked gouda. Cheers to the stress-free outdoor lifestyle.
After being rested we kept on hiking higher up. This gully led us to a thick snow patch in which we could climb down into a cave and watch the roaring brook. At this point I just wanted to keep exploring this new environment but dripping water reminded me of how precarious it was. Thus we all walked back out and headed for the tuckamore trees. Unfortunately this seemed like the only way up. Bush walking and rock climbing was on our menu. Cory was a natural and moved quickly while followed by Tali which could squeeze anywhere. Meanwhile Keri and I struggled to catch up.
Finally, we found a great location to enjoy the majestic scenery of the 700 meters high North Arm Hills and the dark blue Middle Arm beneath them. Cory took out his drone and battled the gusty winds in grace. Although, flying through the gully thought us that reception can be lost and that his drone can survive high altitude crashes.
Hiking back down was quite the task with my knee and meniscus not being fully healed. However, Cory patiently helped me until we reached less rocky and steep terrain. Then the walk back to the beach flew by. There, to our surprise, we realized that low tide made it much easier to cross the water at mid leg height. At this point all four of us were starting to feel the early rise. Still, the hike out gave us a second wind as we dreamed of poutine.
Back to the truck we celebrated our 20 kilometer trek and drove away satisfied. As we reached cellphone reception we ordered a feast which we picked up and topped with cold beers at home. Eventually after looking at the pictures and videos we fell asleep exhausted and happy. What an adventure in the North Arm Hills!
North Arm Hills Access
Option #1 Drive in 35 km Hughes Brook dirt road and another 5 km on North Arm Hill road. The dirt road can be challenging to navigate through and the trail head is hard to find. This is not a maintained trail and good map and compass skills will be needed. For more information contact us or the IATNL.
Option #2 Take a boat from Cox’s.
Alex
Live Wildly Intepid!
Carpe Diem
