One of my favorite activities that I love to do when travelling to warmer destinations is surfing. As if warm water and sunshine coupled with turquoise water and gorgeous scenery all around was not enough. One of the most peaceful places in the world for me is just sitting on my board out past the break.
Just listening, feeling and being part of the experience that is the power and awe of the ocean. A peaceful meditation bobbing up and down with the gentle rhythm of the swell. A real contrast to the angry power that awaits closer to shore. The feel of bath like water is almost surreal after experiencing surfing in a Canadian winter. Although there is nothing quite like a brain freeze from the outside in and tripping on frozen stumps you call your feet. Wet-suits do the job but the freedom and range you have with just some board-shorts is just that, pure freedom.
The next set starts to roll in as your eyes scan for an opportunity. You spot a peak coming your way and get yourself into position. Your heart rate and anticipation grows as you paddle and pickup speed. One final push as the wave picks you up for a few moments of bliss, before plunging you back into the fury of the crashing wave. Holding you down while you struggle to maintaining your composure and hold on to that precious air. Finally you surface after what seems like eternity with revitalized energy and stoke.
Grabbing your board and paddling back towards the walls of water with a new determination to ride just a little longer.
These are fleeting moments of peace and tranquility paired with the rush of adrenaline and feeling of accomplishment that always has me coming back for more surfing.
Check out our YouTube channel for ongoing surf adventures.
Cory
Live Wildly Intrepid!
Carpe Diem
